Free-wheeling New Zealand

For the better part of this trip I tried to minimize my expectations. And consistently under-hyping each country and being as open-minded as possible as we crossed new borders led to happy times.

One place I couldn't help but have big, wonderful expectations for was New Zealand. 

I blame some of my expectations on Dani, my amazing friend who spent a year living and traveling around NZ. We share a love for the outdoors, and talking to her before we left pumped me up. When we started to plan our time in NZ, I pulled out the tramping guide book she sent me off with like a kid rediscovering a favourite toy. I poured over the book, and the scrap piece of paper tucked inside with a list of suggestions in Dani's handwriting. Add in the fact that we'd have our own wheels AND the ability to make our own meals, and I was giddy.

Lucky for us....New Zealand did not disappoint.

From the moment we got outside the terminal in Auckland we knew we'd hit the jackpot. After months of breathing stinky sewers and toxic fumes in Asia, we practically overdosed on quality oxygen. Awesome. I beamed at Aran as we took the optional, outdoor footpath between the International and Domestic terminals. The little sign indicating the distance and approximate time to complete the walk was only the beginning of the organization that was ahead. When it comes to conservation and nature, New Zealand has its shit together. 

Now, one expectation we had been warned about by fellow travelers,  Matt and Tara, was that New Zealand was not cheap. Avocados, for example, which GROW in the country, are $2.50 each! A can of coke is $3.50...that's for 355ml, friends. The cheapest coffee we came across was $3.50, and that price is not because it is fair trade. At $6 an hour, internet was the worst, and a big reason this blog is so tardy.

Needless to say we were now officially watching the budget, and we naturally took advantage of all things free in NZ. 

After getting moved into our camper on the first night in Christchurch, we went to make dinner in the camp kitchen only to discover a bucket marked “FREE”. We scored salt and pepper, tea, coffee, spices, tin foil and even a big bag of pasta! Exciting times!

And instead of paying to go online we made use of the free internet at public libraries. Sometimes we’d go to McDonald’s, but the free WiFi was offset by the effort I’d exert convincing Aran that he did not need a Big Mac meal. 

We quickly learned that our guide book was unnecessary because there are tourism centers everywhere handing out all kinds of free information. The downside being the environmental impact of all the paper and pamphlets that I would end up drowning in while trying to give Aran directions. 

Speaking of directions, the road atlas, (free with our camper rental - they wanted $21 in Australia for one!!) was another unexpected gem. Aran may not agree because I used it to navigate us down questionable looking side roads, only to end up at the start of some trail, that I would inevitably make him hike. In addition to questionable roads, it showed us the way to campsites and camper parks, national parks and hiking trails.

With our trusty camper we had the freedom to go wherever we wanted. Free to detour down a side road to Trotters Gorge, where we packed a lunch to enjoy at the end of a very steep climb up to the breathtaking lookout above. Free to enter the cultural Te Papa Museum on a cold rainy day in the windy city of Wellington. Free access to the natural phenomenons like the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers, and the Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki. Free to climb Te Mata peak for stupendous views of rolling green hills that continued all the way to the big blue ocean beyond. Free to stick around for a couple days in Te Anau to hang out with Aran’s cousin Roisin, who was touring NZ with her husband Bartek, and their daughter Lucinza. Free to spend quality time together. My most cherished moment with Aran was at Twelve Mile Delta campsite just north of Queenstown. We pulled into the campground and until the sun set, we skipped stones across the lake. Aran won hands down…he had one stone skip at least 20 times…it was awesome!

Free to camp! With the right vehicle, there are spots in New Zealand where you can park and camp for free. After braving a 12 km bumpy, winding, rough gravel road in the dark, we woke up, after a free night of camping, to discover Lake Monowai, its crystal clear water perfectly mirroring the snow capped mountains in the background. 

And this is one of the most fantastic things about travel in New Zealand; the freedom to explore. With signs and pointers to all places incredible, Kiwis want to share their beautiful country with you. 

In Oamaru, we asked a lady who was gardening, where to find a path we had been searching for. She sent us up through someone’s backyard. "Isn't this trespassing?", we thought as she continued to wave us on from her front lawn. I hope we don't get shot (oh wait, that's the US). You see, at this point we didn't realize that most walks and hikes in NZ run through farmers fields. You can be sure that if it looks like a path in NZ, it is. And that little step by the fence? That is indeed for you to hop on over and continue your trek past the curious sheep who will no doubt give you a look as you pass by.

Alex, the manger of our campground in Hampden, told us the touristy Moeraki Boulders could wait for another day. He then gave us directions to a special spot where yellow-eyed penguins nest. No tourists. Just me and Aran crouched down behind the tall reeds waiting for the little guys. We saw so many yellow-eyed penguins up close and personal as they made their nightly trek up the dunes into their nests. They flew out of the ocean, gliding gently onto the sand, flapped their wings and started to shuffle and hop their way up the embankment. 

It must be noted that Alex also told us about the best ice cream place in town where we got the most gigantic single (yes, SINGLE) scoop of ice cream for $2.50. 

Hands down, our best local experience was catching up with Glenys and Stephanie in Napier. We were lucky enough to meet these two wonderful women while staying in Jaisalmer, India. When they heard we were headed to their part of the world, they invited us to come visit them. And so when we rolled into Napier, Glenys welcomed us into her warm home like we were her own kids. We'd wake up in the morning and have coffee with avocado on toast in her backyard of homegrown veggies and fruits. Then we'd pile into her BMW and go exploring. We visited The Mission winery, Bluff Hill lookout and the aquarium. 
Another day we went for a walk around Lake Tutira in the morning and then had a picnic lunch at the Holt Forest Trust. After exploring this mystical forest created by a couple, passionate about  designing forest for anyone to enjoy. Our day finished up with a winding drive down to Waipaitike Beach, where we had the place to ourselves. At night, Glenys would make us a hearty, home-cooked meal, then we'd pour a glass of wine (or 2) and look through her library of books to read up on the history of the places we visited, the birds we saw and the plants we encountered. Stephanie had been away so we were lucky to get a couple of days with her as well, including two back-to-back nights with the four of us reminiscing about our experiences in India. Besides the local attractions though, Aran and I agreed learning about Glenys and her family's history on Battery Road and her family vacations at all the places she took us to was the highlight of our Napier visit.  

Glenys taught us to appreciate our own backyard. In the days we spent with her we didn't have to go far to discover the most wonderful places. And while we've decided not to drive home through Canada we will definitely be checking out more of what our hometown has to offer when we get back. Glenys reminded us how to be kids again. She is so young at heart and that's why we loved hanging around her. 

I hope when we get home we don't forget how to be free. I hope we keep exploring old railways and trails. I hope we stop to inspect weird mushrooms and listen to the birds. I hope we look up the amazing wildlife Canada has to offer. I hope we keep wishing on rainbows and hugging trees. 

Hey! Stay young and invincible
Cos we know just what we are
And come what may, we're unstoppable
Cos we know just what we are
~ Noel Gallagher