Traveled in Thailand

Two more sleeps in Bangkok and then we say goodbye to Southeast Asia. I had hoped to blog more in the last couple of months. Usually with all that traveling there's some obstacle that makes for a good story, but here in Southeast Asia it's been pretty easy.

And in Thailand, its been too easy in fact.

Back in Malawi, we met a couple who told us after Africa and India, Southeast Asia would be a breeze, especially Thailand.

And they had the perfect term for it.

Traveled.

They said, "you don't travel in Thailand, you get traveled".

At the time we laughed about it but it is so true.

We don't have to think here. It's all done for us. "Wrapped up in a nice, neat little package", as Homer would say.

The Thais know you're
thirsty before you do

To catch a bus in Africa, meant dealing with 30 touts yelling and pulling you in different directions, all while accusing each other of being liars, to the point you weren't sure where you'd end up or if a bus was even coming. In India, we spent full days in the reservation office planning our train travel, pushing and elbowing our way to the ticket window multiple times, only to have to box out the locals, like I was back in the key during high school basketball, as they pushed their orders and yelled over your shoulder!

But here, you're practically hand-held as the Thais shuttle you through your trip. Everyone is arranging everything for you. They know where you're going before you do. 

As we walked into a bus station, a little Thai lady walks up to us, points and exclaims, "Chiang Mai!". Aran and I look at each other like, "how the hell did she know that?!?".

The tourist trail is fairly well established here. It's "traveled".

Sometimes it works out nicely for us though. We bought a ride from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai from the enthusiastic and pushy staff at our guesthouse, and it included a stop at the White Temple. We asked if there was a direct bus, to which they replied, "No! Mini bus is better. You like White Temple, very beautiful!". And I've gotta say, they were right. It was the best temple we have ever seen and was a really awesome surprise. It was during this trip through the country that I noticed huge road signs with u-turn arrows on them, along with the name of a town that's back the other way, you know, in case you missed it. They even turn you around when you're lost!

The thrill of overcoming the challenge of getting somewhere is gone. It's been replaced with the challenge of finding some places off the beaten path; with the task of trying to convince an assertive local that, in fact, you do not want to go where everyone else is going to do what they're doing, that yes, you do want to travel with locals.

And so, oftentimes, we find ourselves on the boring, tourist bus with all the other falangs.

Foreigners.

And while we have met some truly fantastic people, we've also encountered some that make my blood boil.

You know who I mean. I'm sure you've seen them.

They are everywhere in Southeast Asia, demanding the same comforts of the Western world but at third world prices, which are actually closer to 1/5 or 1/10 of the Western world price, and complaining that no one speaks English. I feel like saying, "hey, pal, how's your Thai these days?".

I mean really, did you travel all this way to hear everyone speak English? Did you travel here to eat burgers and pizza?

Ok, I get that the language barrier is challenging, but how 'bout a little understanding and patience?

And yes, after 2 and a half months in Africa, I was indeed craving some cheese.

But to come on vacation and expect basically HOME for 1/5 of the price, I have to wonder, why did they bother?

Because of all this, we end up traveled, by English speaking guides, on a first world bus to first world accommodation, in order to keep the tourists happy, and spending their tourist pound, euro, or dollar.

I know I'm sounding quite critical here but I've been thinking about all this in reflection of others, but also, in myself.

When we first began our journey, it was easy to fall into the disgraceful place where you're appalled that a local is trying to overcharge you. Asking the tourist price, not the local price.

You negotiate hard and then walk away realizing you just haggled over 50 cents, about 1/2 of what most people are living off on a daily basis.

For someone who endorses fair trade products back home, I found myself going against this very principle! So what if I'm being asked for more because I'm a foreigner? Shouldn't I? I've heard the excuse, "I'm just a backpacker", or, "I don't have a job". But the simple fact that you bought a plane ticket to get here already suggests you have more money than most of these people will see in their lifetime. And if you're on such a tight budget maybe you shoudn't be buying that beer Lao t-shirt.

Every tourist who celebrates getting something beautiful and handmade for super cheap is basically celebrating the continued abuse of someone, somewhere. Maybe not the person who they bought from, but someone in a factory slaving over that garment or purse, and likely in deplorable conditions, for less than a dollar a day. Not much to cheer about is there?

And so this is what I think about as the Thais do the travel thinking for me. How to overcome the bigger, systemic challenges of tourism. And I'll keep thinking about it, long after our trip is over because hopefully it'll make me a better traveler and a better person.

It's not just where you travel, or how cheap you did it. It's who you are and who you impact along the way that matters.

"As a person acts in life,

so he becomes"